Perfect First Layer Podcast

3D Chameleon, PLA or PETG?, Running a Print Farm and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Hello,I'm a dedicated listener of your podcast and I have a question that's been on my mind regarding 3D printing materials. Nowadays, PETG is available at a price point similar to PLA, sparking a debate among enthusiasts. Many argue that PETG is superior in every aspect, rendering the use of PLA obsolete. However, my personal experiments, corroborated by various online sources, indicate that PLA exhibits greater tensile strength and, in some cases, enhanced impact resistance—especially PLA+. This does seem to vary across different brands.While PETG undoubtedly outperforms in terms of temperature resilience and chemical stability, its reputed strength superiority is something I find quite perplexing. My theory is that PETG's significant deformation under gradual stress, as opposed to PLA's sudden failure under higher loads, might be influencing this common perception. I would love to hear your thoughts on this topic. Thank you for the consistently excellent content! Kelly
Hey guys love what you do, I’m listening to the “Worn Nozzle” Podcast. You mention the 3D Chameleon multi filament changer. You guys should try to get him on the show, https://www.3dchameleon.com/ . The inventor is Bill Steele (I may have misspelled the last name) and if you will look at the dates of releases, Bill’s invention predates all the multi filament changers even Prusa’s MMU, Bambu’s AMS, etc. He is up to version MK4 and this unit is amazing. Don’t dismiss it as a gimmick, it works better than all these others out there including the new “enraged rabbit carrot feeder”.  Chris

Delta Voron?, Organic Supports, Wet Filament and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Hi everyone,I am jeroen pattyn from belgium  and im a 3D print hobbyist for 2 years now . Is there a possibility to use 2 different kinds of support on 1 model ?Sometimes i m thinking to use organics on one overhang and raster on the other . This for saving some time and getting better results .I was thinking first i could do this with the paint on supports in prusaslicer but i dont find a possibility . I have a prusa xl 5 head printer and a bambulab x1 CARBON  i would like to hear your thoughts on this one guys .Greetings from belgium and keep doing the fun job with the podcast .
Listening to the most recent podcast discussing volumetric flow rate. If you weren’t aware, this can be displayed in cura. Once the model is sliced in the preview tab, there’s a drop down where you can select options other than line type. One of these is flow, and it will show a color gradient on the model of what the volumetric flow rate is at different regions of the print. This can be used to see the max vol flow value too. Cheers! Ben
I’ve been 3D printing for about 8-months. I currently have a Bambu Labs X1C. I’ve never dried filament. I had the last meter or so of a roll of PLA get brittle and I just recycled it, but no other issues. I mainly print with PLA and PETG. I store them in sealed plastic cereal boxes with desiccant. They hygrometers in the boxes typically read ~10%. I keep fresh desiccant in the AMS, and the humidity meter in the slicer is typically under 3 our of 5. The social boards are filled with wars over “to dry, or not to dry”. Can you give us the true skinny on this topic?Two questions on filament drying: 1) Under what conditions do you dry filament? What types, and how do you know they need drying? 2) If you dry filament, what do you use. I know the X1C can dry, so I already have one option. I’ve seen people use food dehydrators. And then there are special purpose filament dryers. Thoughts and recommendations would be appreciated.Love your podcast! Paul

Filament Issues, Toxic Fumes, Which Beginner Printer? and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Hello!I'm new to the 3d printing world (one week) and have enjoyed learning from your podcast.How do you recommend diagnosing and fixing printing issues with different filaments?So far Ive only run PLA and PLA+ through the Bambu x1C - I've got some TPU, Silk and ABS coming so it'd be good to be prepared for when someting eventually goes wrong! Norman
I recently decided that I needed more printers, as one does, and building one was fun, so of course I need a Voron 2.4 350mm. Now, I *could* just use the Print-it-Forward and buy the pieces, but I wanted to print it myself. I built the frame, added the panels, and by moving the MK4 screen a bit, I managed to use the Voron-frame to enclose my MK4 so it could print ABS better. I don't have the greatest ventilation available, but there is some, and I don't notice very much smell. Is modern, quality ABS a bit better health-wise, or is it still kinda bad? I don't sleep in the same room Christian
My son, age 13, wants to buy a printer. His budget is $350 MAX. We have been doing lots of research in this budget range via YouTube, podcast and talking to people.We have been leaning towards the Ender 3 ke or the A1 mini, since the Prusa is just too far out of our budget right now.The usage would be for masks, small to medium size mechanical parts designing, mechanic tool box organization, speed is NOT priority (but nice to have), print quality is preferred.I want to know, now that some of these printers have been on the market for a little while, what would you recommend for a first time buyer today, considering the whole market and not just these two mentioned.Thank you David

New Co-Host Jerry Joins Us! Big Nozzles and Flow Rates, and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
When printing with large nozzles, do the same volumetric flow rate limits apply or do they scale with the larger nozzle? Such as PLA in 0.4 nozzle at <20 cubic mm/s, then with a 0.8 nozzle are you still limited by the material to the same flow rate or can you increase temp and tune settings to a higher flow rate? Thanks! Ben

Worn Nozzle? Multi Color Systems, Printing PETG and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions:
How do you know when a nozzle is worn out? if printing normal PLA and PETG, do you have an expected lifespan such as X kg of filament? Comparing cheap AliExpress nozzles of basic material with name-brand or special alloys or coatings, is longevity increased or is the gain primarily on performance and heat transfer? Ben
Thanks for the great podcast. I enjoy it a lot even if you're discussing machines, materials and techniques I'll likely never use myself! There are endless YouTube channels on the subject, but what I like about the podcast in particular is the discussion, and your willingness to challenge each other about views you hold, in a constructive way. Keep it up!I have an Ender 5-S1 and can print reliably in PLA now. Of course, it started out printing OK but went downhill as I experimented with it and destroyed and then replaced the surface plate. Anyway, now that I've got it all going I'd like to start printing PETG too. While I'm a lot more clued up now, the problem is I don't necessarily remember all the steps that led me to bring the PLA print quality back up to spec – I was just blindly following different clues and recommendations due to my lack of experience. If you were in my position, how would you approach generating a good profile for PETG? I'm thinking in terms of what types of test prints, and the order you'd do particular tests, along with anything else you'd suggest. Simon
Are the phrozen or even the anycubic ams or multi color units any good ? Are they just bambulab clones.I love yalls content keep it up, Thanks in advance Tobias

Ender 5 S1 Mods, Printing ASA, .06 or .04 Nozzle? and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Just finished the latest episode where you guys talked about FreeCAD. I almost snapped when Guy said it was not parametric, or that "just recently changed". It's been like that since day one, almost 22 years ago.What Guy referred to was the Topological Naming Problem, the thing that happens when you remove a feature that another feature depends upon. Something that was mentioned happening to Guy in Fusion as well. Have great news, in the 0.22dev branch it has code that mitigates that issue (can never be solved, because there is an infinite number of possible models to design and an infinite ways of breaking things) and in August or September the 1.0 version is going to be released with that fix and many, many improvements present in the 0.22dev. I encourage you to be on the fence for when 1.0 is released.And yes, FreeCAD uses the graphics card with OpenGL.Cheers from Argentina, Gabriel
The Ender 5-S1 is my only machine. Aside from the sonic pad and the acrylic enclosure, are there any mods that you'd consider worth the time and investment? If yes, what would be the cost and how tricky are they to pull off for someone with good DIY skills and equipment, but only moderate 3d printer knowledge? I'm in the UK (I can do the currency conversion, but not all products available to you might be available easily here, though I'm willing to import if it's worth it).Thanks again! Simon Troup
What are the major categories or different applications you would classify printers into? I’m thinking along the lines of a voron 0 for small high quality, something with a large print volume, something enclosed and high precision, etc. I ask this as I consider selecting a second printer, what are some considerations to decide on what would most expand my capabilities?I have an E3V3 KE with some minor mods (structural, silicone spacers, nozzles) and I have it well tuned and printing great. Do I get a second one for continuity and ease of use, or would I be better served getting something to fit a different niche?Love the podcast and all the different angles you bring to the discussion!Ben
I was curious to know what type of ASA you were trying to print as I have printed E-Sun, Inland and Polymaker. I have never had a problem with keeping it on the bed. I've even printed it on an ender 3 pro in the open air and it stuck just fine. I do use Magioo on my print beds, so just curious what you guys were using that was warping. I have a K1, an Ender 3 pro and Ender 3 pro s1 and a sv06 Sovol and printed ASA just fine on all of them. The SV06 and the s1 are in those cheap creality  plastic enclosures.Thank you for the response. Chris
I love the podcast. Guy, I've been following you on the fine woodworking side for several years, and gravitated to this podcast when I got my first 3D printer, an AnyCubic Kobra 2 along with Raspberry Pi and Octoprint, in December. I've upgraded to Bambu Labs X1 Carbon. The Kobra 2/Raspberry Pi required me to spend my time mastering the technology, rather than just printing cool stuff. I realized I did not need another rabbit hole, so I went with the X1. The analogy I use when asked by other 3Ders is that rather than being the guy who soups up the car, I just want to go for a ride! But, I digress.I've heard mixed reviews on the advantages of a 0.6mm hot end vs. the stock 0.4mm that comes with the printer. Speed and strength are noted as the primary advantages, but at some cost to quality. Many of the prints I make are for use as jigs in the shop or other household hacks, so even though I love the quality of the prints, I could sacrifice that for speed. I've read many comments on reddit that say the speed improvement claim is exaggerated. Can you guys set me straight? Paul
 

Favorite Prints, Printing PETG Fast, Print Dimensional Accuracy and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
I got into the hobby in the last year or so, and have been looking at lots of different printers for my second machine. I'm fascinated by the design of them. I have an older, second-hand, FlashForge educational model the "Inventor", and I rarely have to re-level my bed once it's dialed in.Why does the larger Voron design use a flying gantry with 4 stepper motors, instead of a fixed gantry and a moving build plate for the z axis? It seems like it would be so wobbly and it requires mesh bed leveling. Also, why are PEI build plates so popular when a Glass plate is so much flatter, more durable, and has better thermal mass?Tim
What has been your favorite personal project or application of 3d printing? What have you made or fixed with 3d printing that you were most proud of, excited about, or found most useful?Ben
Hey Guy and guys,I love my Ender 3 v3 and I've printed a ton of PLA with it. However, the stock profile in Creality Print for PETG prints quite slowly in comparison, around 50 mm/sec. How do I go about printing PETG faster? What settings should I look into adjusting so I can bump the speed and still get decent prints? Thanks! Bruce
Hi Guy(s),
Thanks for the discussion about FreeCAD. Since I asked my original question, there has been some notable development in the FreeCAD project that might entice you or some listeners to check it out. And just to be clear, I'm not involved in the development of FreeCAD or Ondsel, I'm just enthusiastic about its progress and think it could be of use to a lot of people.In the latest development builds of FreeCAD (available on their GitHub), they have made major improvements in the parametric behavior. Models are more resilient when making changes and references are less likely to break. FreeCAD is still not as usable as something like Onshape, but at the current rate of development, I think it is becoming serious competition.I guess this is supposed to be a question, so how about this: What are your go to resources for learning a new program/software? Do you have any specific websites or YouTube channels you recommend for learning your CAD program of choice? Thanks,Austin
Hey guys,I’ve been developing an adjustable projection jig for the most popular honing guides (Guy can explain), but the parts aren’t coming out square. I have a Bambu P1S, and I’ve tried different orientations for the parts (except diagonally), and different materials and print speeds, but the parts are consistently out of square, which renders the jig useless. I’ve had the issue since the printer was first set up. How do you recommend I fix the problem? Thanks!Damon

13' Printed Light Saber, CAD Software, Printing Side Hustle and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions:
Hey I want to get my first printer and can’t decide what to get. I am a cnc machinist and program parts using CAD softwares daily. I’m looking to start a little side hustle and produce practical parts/be creative with prints. I would prefer an enclosed printer but definitely can be persuaded otherwise. What printer is best? What about a second printer. Levi
I have been interested in recent developments in FreeCAD. I’m hoping it can become the Blender of parametric modeling in terms of being fully featured with a clean UI. Do any of you Guy(s) have experience using FreeCAD? Austin

Lulzbot Printers, PETG in the car?, Solid Printer Foundations and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Hey fellas! I live in stony plain Alberta and the temp like to swing a solid 80 degrees celcius over the year. I'm doing a new stereo build for my car and want to put my lowly ender 3 neo to work! It's modded to all heck and I can put it in my workshop if I need a heated chamber. Now here's my question. In the summer it's not unusual to see North of 35c/95f which means in car temps when parked can reach 50c/125f now will PETG survive this? Or do I need to go with ABS?I could google it but I'd much rather listen to guy accuse Nathan of making up words while JJ prints a golden toilet in the background.Cheers fellas! Look forward to the next episode.P.S.  I can't remember if I said this or not initially. I'll be making speaker pods that live on the dash next to the A pillar. Normally I'd do wood and fiberglass. Justin
I initially purchased a Prusa printer with the understanding that I could continuously upgrade it through available kits as new versions are released. However, I’m beginning to question whether this approach is truly beneficial. Do you believe it is sensible for Prusa to design the MK5 in a manner that allows full upgrading from the MK4, or could this strategy be inadvertently hindering significant innovation?Love the podcast!'' Jim
What are your thoughts on the best base or location for a printer?  Something soft to absorb vibration or hard and heavy to be sturdy, or a layering of different materials? Ben

New MultiColor Printers, Building Vorons and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions:
I'm really looking forward to hearing about Guy's experience putting together his latest Voron. If you guys could build your “ultimate Voron”, what would it be and what would be your application for it? James
Are the phrozen machines any good or are they just bambu lab replicas? Tobias Raynor
 I am debating between a dual hybrid corexy motion system for idex or a basic cartesian cube setup.  I know everyone is obsessed with corexy these days for speed and quality but are there any actual benefits to that over a cube cartesian system like the ender 5 plus?  From what I can tell, all the benefits come from limiting bed movement to the z axis and a print head that is potentially lighter due to not carrying the x axis motor.  I'm using high temp motors so in theory they don't need to be moved outside of the chamber, and with idex, the x gantry will never be that light.   Am I missing something or do these 2 printer styles essentially share the same benefits? What do you think I should do - hybrid corexy or cartesian cube?Should I trust that this can be done safely, follow directions posted online, and maybe just have an electrician friend check my work?Is the reality that wiring on any moving parts will eventually fail, and therefore I should pursue a custom 48v or 24v heatbed made in the 800+ W range?Thanks guys and keep up the good work with the podcast Peter Osinski