Perfect First Layer Podcast

3D Printing News, Clogged Nozzles, Klipper on K1 and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions:
Another dedicated aussie listener, hey guys, thanks for a great podcast. My question is, I recently purchased a K1 Max, not many issues except hot end blockages 3 in as many weeks, it’s even causing under extrusion and have to disassemble the hot end to clear it out, thing is it seems to line the inside just above the nozzle which seems impossible to clear, any advice would be much appreciated, is it me the way I’m changing filament or is it an issue with the printer? Thanks in advance Roy
My question is about the new K1 firmware hack provided by crealitys outlet on giithub, is it worth the risk? I’ve been doing the yards in checking and researching, but cannot other than maybe a couple of issues from people on Reddit I have around 3 years experience in 3d printing so have some knowledge thanks to your podcast, great listening Roy
Hi.I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo, and the bed is in very bad condition and the prints are not sticking well, while i wait for a new bed i want to ask, can i use lacquer on my bed (I don’t know which type is it)?Thanks, Noa

Bambu A1 is here!, Ender 3 Future and MORE!

Other than a great discussion on the new Bambu Labs A1, here are this episodes questions:
Based on a previous question you guys helped with, company I am consulting with purchased a Bambu X1 Carbon.  We are successfully producing salable nylon/carbon fiber parts for ultra light canoes.   Very happy with our purchase.So - next question.  Thinking of second printer.  What are the gains you would get in the $1500 to $2500 range.  Is it speed, robustness or reliability?  The X1 checked all the boxes with good build, easy to learn slicer and reliable prints so far.  Just trying to understand why we would make the next jump up, and if it is really necessary.Thanks for all the info - it has been invaluable so far!Gary Ratajczak
Hi guys,Hope you are all well.My question would be: do you guys have any tips for printing larger prints for a bed slinger dimensions 220x220x250? I have an Anycubic Kobra 2. I intend to print helmets which are generally a lot larger than my print bed dimensions. And What are your thoughts on SLA printing?Thank you all for this great podcast!Kind Regards,Carson, Southampton, UK (place where Titanic set sail if it helps haha)
Hello all! Since you all have one of those fancy new Enders, is that the X-Motor on the back of the gantry? I keep wondering in all the reviews I see. Any thoughts on why they moved it to the back? What's the belt path look like?Thanks Guy(s)! ha ha! Love the podcast!JohnDStrand

Printer Profiles, Buying Paralysis, Gifting Printers and MORE!!!

This Episodes Questions and Comment:
From: Michael Banicki  Listening to your last episode I heard you talking about the labor intensive art of creating profiles for different slicers for different printers and materials. One thing I have found is that many of your 3D model websites like printables will also have downloads for different slicers and materials and printers on them as well. Such as you can search for k1 Max profile on printables and many different things come up. Thought this may be a helpful suggestion for yourselves, or other listeners that may be new to setting up custom profiles and slicers and needed a little bit of help.
Hey Guy, JJ, and Nathan.
I am at that stage in my life that I have a printer I no longer need/want. It's an Ender 3 Pro, with some mods and upgrades. There's an organization, locally, that I can donate it to so that it will hopefully help someone else get hooked on the hobby.My only reservation is that it was my FIRST PRINTER, I don't have any sentimental attachment to it now... I think... but wanted see if you've ever had any regrets about gifting, selling, getting rid of a printer.Thanks a lot, Jon LaRue, Kirkwood MO. 
From: CarterSubject: Analysis Paralysis - I've got it bad
Message Body:Hey guys, listening from Canada (sorry for all the smoke), I love the podcast and have learned quite a bit from your deep dives. Keep up the good work! Nathans humor and total lack of give a f**k makes my sides hurt.I was hoping you could point me in the right direction for my situation. I am trying really hard to ignore the hype built up around these next gen printer speeds, but I think there is some merit to them. On one hand I'm not sure I'd gain anything as fast part cooling typically = weaker parts. On the other, rapidly printing prototypes would speed up workflow.I am printer shopping and stuck in analysis paralysis. I currently have a highly modified Ender 3v2 (Dragonflt BMS, fans, Jyers firmware)  and have gotten it dialed into the point where I can click send to printer and walk away. I now need something to print ABS,ASA and maybe CF nylon for functional prints so having a built in filter is a huge plus.  High speed PLA or PETG would be a bonus but not absolutely necessary. I also don't have an immediate need for a bigger build surface but maybe not a bad idea to get for the future. My current choices are as follows:Budget ~$1500cnd + or - $300- Another Ender 3v2 (or 2 or 3) on sale $289 + mods will cost $500cnd total with a custom filtered enclosure. Sticking with what I know is appealing to keep the workflow the same but maybe not the most reliable choice for making functional parts even if its in an enclosure. It's also outdated so I'm  not sure that's a good use of my money. They also take up a lot of space.- An Ender 3v3se + an enclosed Prusa Mk3s+ (fast printer + a workhorse)- Bambulabs P1S - $900 + $80 hardened parts for CF- Creality K1/K1 Max - $700-$1250- 1 or 2 Prusa mk3S+ - $879 ($450-700 used with an enclosure.)- Prusa Mk4 $1400 + enclosure too expensive for what it is?- Any other suggestions? I am not apposed to buying 2 printers, so long as it fits within the budget.I am inclined to lean toward a K1 Max because I feel like once the source code is released retrofitting parts would be much easier and the community will embrace it more. Probably not to the same extent as the E3v2, but the ability to fix any deficiencies with the machine long term would be nice.Sorry for the length, please feel free to cut this down to save recording time. Thanks for all that you guys do to keep us nerds entertained on long drives and at work.

Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, Bed Leveling Woes, Printing Accuracy and MORE!!!

This weeks listeners questions:
Hey guys, love the podcast! Leveling - Spring, silicone spacers, wheel locks, use a piece of paper, use a feeler gauge, etc.... for those of us that don't have a BambuLab printer or some machine that auto-levels for you in that there are NO leveling wheels to adjust, what is your guys' step-by-step process for getting a good level? Set Z-height, manual level, auto level? Use a piece of paper to gauge height? Keep the springs or swap them out for silicone spacers? There are a lot of "recommendations" on the interwebs when it comes to this and I'd love your take on it.Josh
My workplace has a Prusa Mk2.5s that we can use for personal projects. I recently printed a set of inserts for my router table plate. Getting their height extremely accurate is important, and I've found that the prusa is consistently printing thing about .003" thicker than designed. The ID of the holes in the center of the part is consistently.004" undersized. Is this level of accuracy acceptable for a printer like this? What kinda of things can I do tune it? Should I just account for it in my designs? Or am I being too damn picky?Enjoying the podcast, keep it up.P.S. Guy, if you've got any printers you want taken off your hands, you should reach out to me before your son! I'll trade you a knife Theo
Hi, im Altair and i love the 3d printing world and your podcasts is so usefull to me, but ill get to the point.I have a Ender 3 V2 Neo, its great but im not im home a lot and i cant use i a lot, so, could you recomend me a tiny printer that i could move and take with me.Thanks. Altair

Delta Vs. Core XY, Eliminating Vertical Artifacts, Selling Your Designs and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions:
Good Morning/afternoon/evening JJ, Nathan, and of course, Guy! I hope that you are all doing well and Nathan hasn't burned down down his studio yet. Love the podcast and all the content each of you are making. The different perspectives is really interesting to see and hear from you three.My question is pretty simple. With all the hype about CoreXY machines lately, and people wanting to print faster, why are there not more Delta Printers on the market? Nathan, you can hold your tongue and let JJ or Guy respond and then let your venom spew forth. LOL! Also, can you please explain the reason CoreXZ even exists? Thanks for all you three do and I look forward to hearing the answer on the podcast.John D Strand, yes the guy in the jesters hat at MRRF.
I purchased a Creasee Skywalker sometime ago but have not had the opportunity to use it until now.I have read that Creasee no longer exists. Can I replace the proprietary operating system with Marlin. Can you please point me toward a resource for some assistance.Thanks so much.David
Hey, guys!! Absolutely love the show and watching your channels on YouTube. My question is I have a modded Ender 3 Pro and I've been struggling with these vertical lines on my prints along the Y axis. I've come to find this is a common issue among 3d printers and its referred to as Vertical Fine Artifacts (VFA). I haven't seen to of found any fix for this and have tried multiple things. Like belt tension, adjusting the wheels, replacing stepper motor and pulleys. I'm hoping you guys can shed some light on this and know of a possible fix. Or even maybe some tips that can reduce the appearance of them. Thanks guys!Kyle
I listened to Brendons question about correct hole size and remembered when I had the same problem about last year when I started designing things for myself, I found a very useful little chart from littlemachineshop(.)com that is the first result if you google "little machine shop tap chart". The link at the top of the page has a PDF that has almost all the needed bore and drill sizes for whatever type of hole is needed based on fastener size, in standard and metric.Making holes in Fusion360 also includes the option of choosing the type of fastener and then choosing between a tapped or clearance hole, and a lot of other useful options (depth, counterbore, countersunk, etc.). I don't know if I am required to ask a question, so if I am here it is: I'm thinking about selling some of my models as kits and as STLs. What would the best platform for that me? Etsy? Cults? Squarespace?Thanks for your time,Chris Feeney
 

Lots of K1 Max Talk, New Bambu Printer, Design Tolerance and MORE!

This Episodes Questions:
Hey guys, I'm a hobbyist and new to 3d printing. I have the budget right now for the P1P w/ AMS and would be able to save a bit for the X1C w/ AMS. I'm really debating between the 2 as I primarily print only PLA & PETG, and don't really see myself needing an enclosure for some of the other filamen types. I'm interested in multi-material printing, speed, and not having to worry about leveling. I'd love to save some money by getting the P1P w/ AMS, but don't know if it's worth it to have the LiDar and some of the other bells & whistles that the X1-Carbon offers. Would love your input, thanks!Josh 
One thing I’ve always struggled with when designing new parts and fixtures is getting tolerances right, whether it be for a loose, sliding fit; push fit, or even creating a hole that a screw will go into and cut its own threads. Is there a general formula for sizing based off of the type of fit?Brendon
Filament temps - When I first started printing I finally learned the correct settings for the original spool of PLA that I got. I got a new spool of PLA from a different company and just left the temp settings the same thinking it'd get the same result and I can't get anything to stick. How do you guys go about finding the optimal temperature settings for a new spool?Thanks for the great podcast!Josh
Another question I was thinking about that I would love to hear your opinions about is bed adhesion, Glue Stick vs a Brim. Slicers are starting to default to autobrim, which I think is really weird.

Is AI the future?, Sub $200 printers, Which printer for farm and MORE!!

This Episodes Questions:
I have saved up enough money to buy a $200 3d printer. Can you give me a list of pros and cons of each printer and 3d printing in general?
John 
Hey Guy, 
    I'm working on starting a 3d printing business. I have only 1 3d printer, an ender 3 v2. This was my first 3d printer and I learned a lot in The past 2 years on this 3d printer and I want something different but I do not know what is the best 2nd printer. I hate watching videos and people dont really care about how their print quality looks, so it makes it hard to chose my next printer when there are only a few people on youtube who care about the quality of their prints. Im looking for something with great print quality. What do you, jj and nathan recommend?
P.s. 
Love the show. You guys are doing a great job.
Aaron
hi everyone from Ozzy land
I have a Creality CR10S pro V2 and it hasn't been too bad for a first printer (mind you its creality)  has any of you used this particular machine?  there isn't many reviews on it.  and the other thing is how do you know when to change the heater cartridge? (outside of just not working) because my machine seems to be sensitive to the part blower blowing on it.  and its still a stock machine.
Thank you for the great podcast been learning plenty off it
Jason

Gluing S*** Together, Main Board Blown Up, MRRF, Creality K1 and MORE!!!

This episodes questions:
With the new addition of podcasts to youtube music, do you guys have any plans of uploading podcasts to that platform on a separate channel? Shortandstumpy
A month ago one of the capacitors on the mainboard exploded. It stunk quite bad but the whole 3D-Printer still works. I did use it for a long time but I didn´t do any upgrades or changes on it. Can I still use it?Love your podcast!
David
So I'm relatively new to the 3D printing community and I've been able to acquire a few printers from an auction site here in Vegas where 3D printers go extremely cheap. An Ender 3 S1, Flashforge Adventurer 3 Pro and Phrozen Mighty 8K resin printer. I've also been lucky enough to find an original stock Prusa i3 MK2 for $100 through the Marketplace. If you were to choose between the MK2 and S1 which would you choose and why?
Linus
something that JJ mentioned in this episode was power outages (whilst printing a helmet for example)… I don’t really understand when/who needs an uninterrupted power supply. These power outages that people talk about, are they momentary outages that cause print failures, or are they longer outages? I ask because I am about to buy my first 3d printer, and I’ve never owned any kind of battery-based power supply protection. Using my computer, I never notice any power outages other than the longer outage kind. So my question is, what kind of power outages are you referring to and are they common? I would guess the sort of very short power interruptions that commonly occur but most people never notice, are usually handled by capacitors for small electronics. But I’m supposing the power consumption of a 3d printer means the capacitors they have for the motor drivers are not specified to provide much power supply protection… please could you discuss the topic of power supply, the sorts of power outages that people can commonly expect, and who really needs to invest in power supply interruption solutions. Great podcast, thanks in advance. 
Tom

Better Supports, Wiring New Fans, IDEX Printing and More!

This Episodes Questions:
I'm planning to make an Iron man suit as a summer project, inspired by Frankly built, and I'm not sure what slicer has better support material, Cura or Prusaslicer.  Almost every print will need to have supports, so this is important.
Calvin Selin
Hello Guy, JJ, and Nathan,
I have a question about wiring as a result of adding dual 5015 fans to my Ender 3 monstrosity.
I like using crimps vs soldering and would like to add a second fan for part cooling, but it's been 20 years since tech school so my memory is fuzzy on best practices. 
How do I wire the second 5015 fan? Can I run 2 positive wires into 1 side of the crimp and a single positive wire back to the motherboard, and then the same with the negative side? 
I plan on using quick connects closer to the print head for ease of maintenance later. The slicing of the wires is planned be further away from the print head so there's less movement on the splice/combination of wires. 
Thanks for your help.
Jon LaRue
Hi, Recently upgraded to cr-10 smart pro I can get solid prints unless I use the front right side of the printer. I have leveled several times manual and automatic; still no luck. Any suggestions in what I should do?
Alex
Hey guys been listening for awhile and just listening to the recent episode and had some good recommendations. You seem to have about the sidewinder X2 and it's a good printer but I have had issues with it and had to move to klipper. Do you guys have the problem? The problem seems to be with Pausing and resuming prints (so can't do color changes) and if you'd lose power you can't resume. Thanks in advance.
Brad
 
Hi guys, it’s wayne again from the the Uk, just wondering what your thoughts was on idex machines, was thinking of getting the Sovol sv04, keep up the great show 👍
Wayne
Hi everyone,
I hope y'all are doing well! I started listening to the podcast a couple weeks ago and I'm loving it! I love hearing the advice y'all give to everyone about their printers. I actually had a question of my own. Nathan, I've seen every video you've made for the S1. I was wondering if there were any upgrades/mods you'd add to it now with the recent release of products in 2023 i.e Sonicpad, BTT Pad 7, and main boards?
Luis

Can 3D Printers Really Fly? Leaning Tower of Printsa, and More!

Had a tech issue here at PFL, and was only able to restore about half the podcast. Sorry! We still are puiblishing what we have and it's a really great conversation for it's length. Thanks so much for listening!